How to become a pro in finding ethically made handcrafted jewelery

So how can you see that jewelry is handcrafted? 

With some goldsmiths it is really easy to tell. But with some it just isn't. There are also goldsmiths out there that create really modern and sleek designs with sharp angles that are perfected to cut glass. Which is REALLY hard to handcraft, but it still can be handcrafted. And it is way harder to see than with goldsmiths that work with natural shapes. Because the "artists fingerprint" is more easy to see with organic designs.

Another thing that makes this hard to spot is all the modern technology that is also obtainable for small independent crafters nowadays. We are a small shop and a big part of our collection is digitally 3D designed, 3D printed and cast with the lost wax technique. A skill normally used to outsource, made into a slowcrafted/handcrafted skill by us (everything is done in home with our own hands and brains, we do not outsource). But also others might take this path. 

This is not an easy path to take. The skill to 3D design, print and cast is a skill where you have to get all the parameters (which are about 45) just right! The print has to be perfect and perfectly cured, the casting gypsum has to be hydrated perfectly and the casting temperature has to be just right to get a good quality creation and that is the least of it. And this, is what still makes this skill a slow-craft and a handcrafting skill. 

Benchworking (creating jewelry with soldering plate and thread together) is way more obviously handcrafted. We also use this skill and is mostly found in our one of a kind collection (because we can't 1:1 duplicate it) and with our commissioned creations (because we won't 1:1 duplicate it).  With benchworking the artists fingerprint is almost always visible. There are always imperfections and "thingies". Even the most crafted, experienced and perfectionist goldsmiths have an artist fingerprint, it just gets harder and harder to spot. 

Handmade ≠ always handcrafted

Nope, sorry to burst that bubble. But handmade is definitely not always handcrafted. 

There are jewelry brands out there that outsource their work to low wage countries to let their jewelry designs created with the hands of the people that work there. You see this more often in the fashion industry than with jewelry. But it is in fact handmade. Just not by the designer. 

So... is outsourcing bad? 

Not always. Outsourcing on its own is not the problem. The issue starts when brands hide it. For if you hide it, you kinda know it is not... amaymay. 

A brand might tell you their jewelry is handcrafted, artisan made, or high quality small-batch, while in reality the pieces are produced in large factories overseas. When transparency disappears, so does trust.

In our opinion, transparency is key. Personally, I want to know where my jewelry or fashion comes from and who created it. If a brand outsources production, that can be perfectly fine, but they should be open about where it is made, under what conditions, and what standards are in place. For me, when that information lacks, I will scratch the back of my head. 

There are however jewelry manufactories that do a great job. But there are more that don’t.

The good side of outsourcing

Ethical outsourcing does exist. In a responsible supply chain, brands work with manufacturers that provide safe working conditions, fair wages, and traceable materials. Some companies even use third-party certifications or audits to verify these standards.

Organizations like SCS Global Services highlight that responsible jewelry production often involves traceability, environmental responsibility, and verified sourcing of metals and gemstones. Certifications and audits help ensure that labor conditions, environmental impact, and sourcing practices meet certain ethical standards.

Brands that outsource ethically are usually very open about it. They often show:

• where their jewelry is produced

• the workshops or factories they work with

• certifications or third-party verification

• details about materials and sourcing

Transparency is usually a good sign. However, do keep note that this is not always reliable. On the one side, hobbyist and small gemcutters do not always work with certifications, refurbished or antique gemstones certainly do not have certifications and most precious metals that come from our suppliers is actually recycled. It's quite a business standard. 

Most important with checking if a brand is ethical in your opinion, is following your gut feeling. 

The dark side of outsourcing

Unfortunately, the global jewelry industry also has a darker side.

In some cases, extremely cheap production relies on exploitative labor practices. Jewelry production can be linked to unsafe mining, unfair wages, and even child labor in parts of the supply chain. According to research highlighted by End Slavery Now, children are still involved in gold and diamond mining in several regions, where they may work long hours in dangerous conditions with little or no pay.

This exploitation often happens at the very beginning of the supply chain: mining the metals and gemstones used in jewelry.

That means even precious metals like gold or silver are not automatically ethical. A piece made from “real gold” can still come from problematic sources if the mining and refining process is not properly monitored.

How to recognize the difference

If you want to become better at spotting ethical vs. unethical outsourcing, there are a few things to look for.

Red flags:

• Vague claims like “artisan made” without details

• No information about production location

• Extremely low prices combined with luxury marketing

• No mention of supply chain or sourcing

Positive signs:

• Clear information about where pieces are produced

• Named workshops or manufacturing partners

• Traceability of metals and gemstones

• Third-party certifications or sourcing standards

In short: outsourcing itself is not unethical. Lack of transparency is.

When brands are open about their supply chain, it becomes much easier to see whether they are supporting responsible manufacturing, or simply hiding cheap mass production behind a handcrafted story.

To have more insight on how outsourcing can look like. These video's might help. 

An insight into a big jewelry manufacturer

How it can look like when you are looking for ready made jewelry pieces from a big jewelry manufacturer

This is lost wax casting, the same process as we use but on a much smaller scale.

Also a video on lost wax casting on a big scale.

So how to conclude this?